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Pernambuco



Hey everyone...Sorry for starting with spam, you know it´s not my style...but given that I got stuck in the bus station of Recife today for the next 5hours, because it´s the 30th Dec and everyone is leaving the town to passing New Years Eve on the seaside, there is no single place left for me in the autobus to Praia da Pipa.

So, don´t be scared (especially Mathis) that I am so comunicative in the last time, I am really fine, that are only the circumstances ;)...and perhaps I miss you also a bit at these special days so far away from home.

So, my first Christmas far from home in my life I spend in Porto de Galinhas ("Chickenport"). This place got got his strange name from his dodgy history during the period where the slave-dealing got forbidden in Recife by the end of the 19th century, so the smugglers ha to find other ways to get slaves into the country.Therefore they arrived to shore in this village nearby to Recive proclaiming a shipment of "Angolan Chicken". Nowadays Porto de Galinhas is famous for his fine beaches around and therefore changed to a quiet touristic spot. My guide told nme something about hippy place, but I guess like the same fate like the Indians in Brazil they werebanished by the masses of tourists. But none the less the it´s a nice place to relax  & making long walks at the beach and of course for surfing.  Latter one I skipped this time, after 1 month of travelling I had a kind of mini burnout and prefered simply hanging around for christmas.


On the morning of 24th I met Ale, a really sympatic guy from Sao Paulo, and his family at breakfast or better they met me, since I don´t like to eat alone I ask ]ed for a seat at their table ;). We had a nice chat, mentioning my big christmas plans going alone in Churrasceria (it´s a kind of barbecue restaurant where you can eat grilled meat...very typical in the South of Brazil). So, obviously their heart melted and they invited me staying for Christmas with their family. So the wine I bought at the supermarket who was thought to drink at night at the beach alone, I brought around as a little present for dinner. PS.: If you bring a wine around here for an invitation at someone´s places, they call it "chici"...so actually I should ask for the next time what is more common to bring around. So in the evening we went alltogether to a village nearby to the house of the uncle. Here family and friends came together and arrange a christmas buffet in the backyard with chicken and pork roast, codfish-maniok casserole, salads and rice and farofa which you eat for every meal.



Traditionally you start with the christmas dinner at midnight, after wishing everyone (also calling friends far away) the best and give kisses, like we do it for New Years Eve. Teh traditional Christmas desert is Panettone here, but a more elaborated version to his italian origen...freher, with chocolate and orange flavour. Also they served a kind of jelly roll filled with guava marmelade which is a typical sweet for the region Permanbuco. So, I had really luck spending the evening with this people which really were so nice to me. Side note: The father wasn´t a bit worried that I didn´t enjoyed the dinner..given to my german rationality / state of being unemotional (= call me DATA :) ) , it´s not sufficient in Brazil telling one time that you enjoy everything, you need to aver it several times.

Next night I went with Ale and some other people from the hostel to my first Forró party, it´s a music style similar to salsa, but you dance more closely. It´was nice to see it, but after 2-3hrs the music get a bit monotonous given by the same rhythm. Unfortunetly Ale forgot his promising dance past, given by only old dancing partners he has as he said (=só estou brincando), so I looking forward dancing with you again on a rock concert in Sao Paulo ;).

After Christmas I went to Olinda, a beautiful colonial city, with lots of churches and multicoloured houses. There I eattended a "Maracatu" a kind of drum session which they usually do for Carneval. So people went throught the streats playing their drums, followed by  the crowd who danced and drank lots of bear. After that on Sunday night the people got stuck in the streets and places drinking more acohol, eating barbecue and until the last music finished...as usual here in Brazil ;)...."Only today counts, who cares about tomorrow"... this could be Brazilian Mantra.


                 Recife in contrast to Olinda, is huge and modern. Skyscrapers and wides streets mark the city. But surpringly it was not that bad as I thought..there are several nice spots in the center, although the main reason why I came here to visit 2 recommended museums for brasilian art and architecture, which both were closed :(. So I strolled the day through the center, which was a only big market, full of people who sell every useless, cheap stuff you can imagine.
Nowadays quality shops are very rare to find in city centers in Brazil. They moved in huge air-conditioned shopping centers in the suburbs where the middle and upper-class families life and  which are only accessible by car. That´s also a reason why big sities change in a kind of ghost city on Sundays ... the people spend there time at the shopping center or at the beaches ... and you find any soul in the  comercial and busniss district in town. So these days aren´t the savest either to plan sightseeing in town.


So, to close this post it´s only left to wish you all a really nice New Years Eve, have a good part and not too much demanding New Year´s Eve resolution to not get depressed 2 weeks later. I am out of this game this year. In Salvador I got this lucky wristlet at the "Igreja do Bonfim" (= Jesus Church) closed with 3 notes, every single one represents a wish of mine, and I only have to wait patiently (that´s the hard part for me ;) ) until the wristlet will fall of. Daniel from Lençois already weared his one since a year and there is only a fine string left. So, I think the lesson I should learn is to be patient...I got it!!!
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Salvador de Bahia



After 5 days of entire nature I turned back to the other extrem ...city life in the capital of Bahia: Salvador.



Here I did my first Couchsurfing experience in Brazil. Without knowing before, my host Mauricio, studied like me in Ilmenau, and he and his family hosting me so nice - starting from picking me up at he early morning from the bus station, showing me the town and give me a cosy home for 4days. Serving the topics, of course auricio played in a Samba band, where he took me on a Open Bar - Pary the first night where they played. As you can imagine lots of alcohol and samba and dancing.
Next day, Sunday, I went in the brazilian way to the town beach "Ribeira" where many, many people pass their sundays...sitting together in chairs under a sunshade, drinking chilled beer and eating fried fish, grilled shashlik or cheese, o tipical bahian fastfood like Aracaju or Araba, underlined with extrem loud party music by parked cars aside with open trunk and huge boxes which treat with ultrasound the whole area. They doesn´t care the signs every 20mtr on the street...Loud music forbidden. Brazilians get bored at lonely beaches...for them a perfect free day at beach has to be in company and always partying. In the evening I met with Isabel, a spnish girl of my hostel in the Chapada, and we went of one of this incredible lots of concierts which always take place in Salvador. We saw for free a regional rock band, Casca Dura  ...and we enjoyed it pretty much.




Next day Claudio and a friend of him (I got him know on my trekking trip as well) did also a really cool sightseeing tour with me through Salvador. We had lunch at a really cool beach restaurant with view on a light house and at Shrimps in Coconut cream...yummy...and drank Malzbier, they call it "Mausebier" here. But different from Germany it contains alcohol and isn´t that sweet. Lechu, perhaps you like more that version ;).


At night Daniel and Jo, which we also got kow on our trek, arrived as well in Salvador and we celebrate our reunion in a quiet fancy nice live-music bar.



And the last day in Salvador I finished with Mauricio in a quiet nice Modern Art Museum at the seaside, having a ice cafe and watching the sunset, before I took my 15hrs bus to Porto de Galinhas, near Recife, where I spend my Christmas time.





So again, summarising, I survided Salvador...any one robbed me or something else. I felt pretty save and contrariwise the Brazilian are so friendly and hospitable...I love them and we should learn a lot from them being more open to other cutures.

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Chapada Diamantina

 

A big sorry for not writing such a long time in my blog, but strangely I couldn´t enter my blog site for several days.
So first of all, merry, merry christmas to everyone! I hope Santa managed to bring all you wished for down the chimney :). By the way Santa, as you we Germans are really squared, t hat´s why we are also at the top of scientific comunity ;), for Christmas sometimes we also show our funny ratonal side. Afriend of mine send me an article of the University of Tuebingen which made a study of Snta´s pace of work at the holy night. (Tip: paste it in the Google translator in case you don´t speak German):
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Tübingen - Informatik-Studenten der Universität Tübingen haben sich mit dem Arbeitstempo des Weihnachtsmannes beschäftigt und herausgefunden:
An einem einzigen Tag muss er 378 Millionen Kinder beschenken. Damit muss er 822,6 Besuche pro Sekunde absolvieren und: In einer tausendstel Sekunde muss er seinen Schlitten am Dach parken, aus dem Schlitten springen, den Schornstein herunterklettern, die Socken füllen, die übrigen Geschenke unter dem Weihnachtsbaum verteilen, den Schornstein wieder raufklettern und zum nächsten Haus fliegen.

Das ist schneller als das menschliche Auge und erklärt, warum man den Alten nie zu Gesicht kriegt. Ungeklärt blieb, wie er auf seinen Schlitten das Gewicht von errechneten 378 000 Tonnen Geschenken packt und wie er die von der Stelle kriegt. Wir schätzen, dass der Weihnachtsmann dafür etwa zweitausendfünfhundert Gabelstapler und ein Gespann mit etwa 150 000 Rentieren bewegt.
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So back to work...My tough life as a Backpacker. What hppends at last.


From the 13th - 17th December I spent 5days in the Chapada Diamantina, a natural park in the west of Salvador the Bahia...an enourmous tableland (bigger than the Netherlands) with full of deep valley and rivers and waterfalls -a paradise for trekking. So I did as well. I joined a 3days trek with a brazilian guy from my hostel , Jadiel, and or guide Flor aiming to see the Cachoeira da Fumaça, Brazil´s 2nd higgest waterfall with nearly 400m after the one they found some years ago in the Amazonas. A stream is tumbling down over the mesa and becomes a fine mist before touching the gound of the deep valley.

Per day we walked around 12km, sounds not much, but the sun and ups and downs between peaks and valley were pretty exhausting, especially for my knees givn that everyone also carry a rucksack of 6-7kg.


During the walk our guide shows us los of plants and animals...like cobra, a colibri and we also get neary in direct contact with the wild wasps at the last day. We nearly reached the top of the waterfalls the lst day, I was running out of energy, but the wasps made me running like Ben Johnson on dope.



At night we met with other groups at the riverside & spend the night under the stars with a deserved Caipi. By the way, pretty interesting facts for all alcoholics...Cachaca, which they use for Caipis, costs less than pure water...you can buy a liter of homebrewed one for 2Reals (less than 1 Euro).


But be careful: Please drinks lots of water before going to bed after a Caipi night, not like me who woke up in the total darkness several times at night to drink water ouf the river there.


Flor, our guide, had a really interesting history, he worked 5 years as a diamant seeker in the Chapada, a extrem physical job before becoming a guide, which he does since 9 years. His back is actually half "kaputt" and hurts but forced to survive it´s not unsual in the hig season that he´s out on track for entire 20days walking with his flip-flops through the mountains while caring heavy bag. In memory as his diamond seeker times he made us a gorgeous "Diamond coffee" at 6 a.m. in the morning, putting river water and coffee powder in a pot and stiring it with a annealing limb from the fire...really delicious! Flor also played the double for the movie of Besouro - a capoeira legend from Bahia - by jumping down a 30mtr rock. The movie will be realeased next year in Europe - watch the trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9wczI20kz4

Finally we finished the trek without any serious injuries (okay, one night the mosquitos attacked obviously only my face, that I got offered next morning "antihistamine" - since I hadn´t seen my face since 2 days, no idea how scary I looked like :), but later at home, statistically the most dangerous place to stay, it happened. At midnight the automatic light of the toilet switched off, so I searched the light switch in the total darkness. But before I found the aforementioned I bumped with my eyebrown against a towl holder which hurt a bit. I went back to the toilet and afterwards to the think to wash my hands. Apalled I saw my face blood flooded. Shit...I was tired and only wanted to sleep. It didn´t hurt much, but in my bad luck I bumped myself very precise so I got a small laceration. Fortunately my former collegues prensented me a quiet complete first aid kit, so I could help myself.


But, next stop is the city Salvador...a bit scared going there...because everyone made me so afraid beforehand, telling me lots of stories and that´s is much more dangerous than Rio...So finger´s crossed that I will survive :)!!
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